The drive to Rock, a small coastal village on the Camel estuary, is an hour’s drive down the A39, passing nearby to Port St Issac. Rather than skirt this picturesque chocolate-box village, you could do as I did and drive slowly through its winding one-car-width street. Smile, wave and pretend like you’re a local, as the milling tourists will view you with the deepest consternation.
Should you care to take a wander around (recommended), you’ll need to park up at the top of the hill and walk down the steep hill. Just a few miles before reaching Rock, you’ll come to Polzeath, one of Cornwall’s premier surfing destinations, where you can hire boards and gear, and even take a few lessons on how to stay upright on your board (next time).
Home for the next three days is The St Moritz hotel, a fine-looking art-deco building situated just above the beach, which is accessible down a dirt path. The expansive, crystal clear rock pools are fascinating for observing the rich variety of marine life; suddenly, I’m eight again, crabbing with a fishing net and bucket.
Five minutes in the other direction along a winding lane, you’ll arrive at the beautifully serene Daymer Bay, no crashing waves here, just the gentle ebb and flow of the tide. It’s easy to spend a whole day, paddling, swimming and bathing on this shallow enclosed beach, so take a packed lunch and a book.
Hidden behind the sand dunes is the humble little church of St Enodoc, where the late, great John Betjeman is buried. If heaven were a churchyard this oasis of a place would be it, a haven to pause for thought with panoramic views across the bay, massive azure blue Cornish skies and for company, Betjeman’s book of ‘Collected Poems’… take me now.
